An historic drover’s inn in one of North Yorkshire’s most picturesque villages has appointed a new head chef.
Will Rough, formerly of the award-winning Skosh in York and the Michelin-starred Star in Harome, takes over at the Owl in Hawnby from Sam Varley.
Sam has moved to Brancusi in York, but will continue to be involved in the Owl, which is run as a joint venture between his family and the Owl’s landlord, Mexborough Estates.
Meanwhile the Owl has been named as one of the 2025 Good Food Guide’s Top100 Pubs in the UK, which has just been published.
The guide praised the Owl for creating a “welcoming retreat, a place to come for unfussy food and a comfortable bed for the night. Whether you eat in the stone-flagged bar in front of a warming stove, the dining room or the splendid terrace on sunny days, you'll find crowd-pleasing dishes.”
Will, who joined the Owl to work under Sam in April 2024, commented: “I am extremely proud to be taking up this prestigious position and following in Sam’s amazing footsteps.
“Thanks to Sam, the Owl has established a stellar reputation not just in Yorkshire, but across the UK, for fabulous food and wine it is an honour to be asked to maintain and enhance this. This reputation has been underlined by this fantastic accolade in the new Good Food Guide publication.
“The food and drink that we will be serving at the Owl will reflect the charm of one of the loveliest pubs in Yorkshire. It will be covering all bases, from walkers coming in for a pint and a snack, to guests staying for dinner and bed and breakfast. Everyone will be treated to a warm welcome and tremendous food.
“It is my aim to keep the essence of traditional pub fare, with some changes here to elevate our offering. Making British game more accessible to all is something I’m passionate about as I see it as an untapped, healthy and sustainable resource. We’re currently taking partridge and venison regularly from the Hawnby estate, with some rabbits and pheasant thrown into the mix.”
Will’s appointment comes at the same time that the Owl welcomes a new Front of House manager Wesley Jones, who has worked with Sam in London.
Jamie Savile, from Mexborough Estates, commented: “The promotion of Will to head chef at the Owl is great news. These are exciting times for our wonderful inn, especially in view of the new Good Food Guide accolade, and the arrival of Wesley.
“I am very confident that Will’s promotion at the Owl will be a tremendous success, making the most of the inn’s enormous potential. Will shares our enthusiasm and desire to continue to build a sustainable and successful rural hospitality business at the heart of Hawnby and also understands the importance of the classic British country pub.”
Pete Varley, a director of the Owl, explained: “This is an extremely positive moment in the development of the Owl as Sam fulfills his creative ambitions at Brancusi and also keeps his hands on the tiller at the Owl. Wesley, meanwhile, will be a great support at the front of house.
“Will totally understands the culinary culture of the place and has been a tremendous asset ever since he arrived from the Star at Harome in April 2024.”
The Good Food Guide entry praised the Owl for dishes “such as chicken, leek and bacon pie or pork T-bone with roasted peach, green beans and pine-nut vinaigrette. Back in the day, cheap monkfish was often passed off as scampi; nowadays it’s a luxury fish and the Owl’s monkfish scampi with curry mayo is fabulous”.
The Guide continued: “Also expect devilled kidneys on toast, piles of hot, melting cheese gougères and cracking Sunday lunches – generously sliced aged sirloin of beef with horseradish cream, rolled shoulder of Yorkshire lamb or game birds in season (red-legged partridge or pot-roast grouse, perhaps). Puddings might be a refreshing grapefruit and Campari sorbet or a homely rhubarb sponge and custard. To drink, there are hand-pulled Yorkshire ales, while low-intervention wines figure prominently on a list that offers plenty by the glass.”
