A magnificent hat-trick for Hawnby's flourishing Owl

The Owl at Hawnby, near Helmsley in North Yorkshire, has received a trio of prestigious accolades within just six months of re-opening.

The historic 19th century drovers’ inn, situated in one of North Yorkshire’s most picturesque villages, is a new entry in the Good Food Guide and the Michelin Guide and has been named as one of the 12 best restaurants in Yorkshire by the Daily Telegraph.

The Owl is in the remote, quiet and hitherto little-known village of Hawnby, in the heart of the North York Moors National Park. The pub-with-rooms is run by Yorkshire-born chef Sam Varley and his team.

Sam, who previously ran the acclaimed Bantam restaurant in Helmsley, commented: “We only opened here at the end of November last year, so we are really pleased to get this recognition. I have a wonderful team supporting me and they must take huge credit for what we have achieved so far.

“Ever since we opened, there has been great support from the local community and also from our former regular clients from Bantam. We have been bowled over by the generous comments and feedback we have received and it is wonderful to see this very special inn buzzing again.”

The Good Food Guide’s entry praised the Owl as: “A place to come for unfussy food and a comfortable bed for the night. Whether you eat in the stone-flagged bar in front of a warming stove, the dining room or the splendid terrace on sunny days, you'll find crowd-pleasing dishes such as chicken, leek and bacon pie, steak with Roquefort butter or seasonal pot-roast grouse with parsnip cream, elderberry sauce and game chips.

“Back in the day, cheap monkfish was often passed off as scampi; nowadays it’s a luxury fish and Sam Varley’s monkfish scampi with curry mayo is fabulous. Also expect devilled kidneys on toast, piles of hot, melting cheese gougères and Sunday lunches – perhaps generously sliced Hereford beef and Yorkshire pudding or a Barnsley chop with Puy lentils. Puddings might be a refreshing grapefruit and Campari sorbet or a homely rhubarb sponge and custard. To drink, there are hand-pulled Yorkshire ales, while low-intervention wines figure prominently on a list that offers plenty by the glass.”

Meanwhile the Michelin Guide enthused: “The team from the former Bantam in Helmsley are behind this characterful rural pub, which benefits from an enviable location perched above a pretty valley in the North York Moors National Park. A former drovers’ inn dating back to the 19th century, there’s a vintage style to the décor and a lovely, welcoming vibe thanks to the friendly team. Hearty, unfussy and downright tasty dishes are the order of the day, with old favourites like devilled kidneys and toad in the hole sure to satisfy. Bedrooms are available for those looking to explore the surroundings in more detail.”

And, finally, to complete this trio of accolades, Helen Pickles of the Daily Telegraph wrote in her 12 Best Restaurants in Yorkshire article: “At the top of the hill, in the tiny village of Hawnby, this pub manages to be a locals' local, a walkers' refuelling stop, a venue for shooting parties as well as a smart dining spot. While the bar is fuss-free and welcoming with a toasty fire (and Yorkshire hand-pulled ales), the dining room has a stylish, pared-back elegance with forest-green walls, colourful standard lamps and romantic candlesticks on polished oak tables.

“Chef Sam Varley offers up a deceptively simple yet creative take on pub classics with a surprising depth of flavour: monkfish scampi and tartare sauce, Barnsley chop with Puy lentils, roast cod with girolles and white beans. The desserts are proper puddings, such as steamed lemon sponge and custard.”

Jamie Savile, from the Hawnby-based Mexborough Estates, which runs the Owl with Sam and partners, commented: “Sam’s achievement in putting the Owl on the map and winning widespread praise from three prestigious publications is amazing. He and his team have been magnificent, sharing our enthusiasm and desire to build a sustainable and successful rural hospitality business.

“When Sam arrived last winter, it was clear that he shared our love and understood the importance of the classic British country pub. And so it has proved. His CV spoke for itself and we are extremely fortunate to have him cooking here in Hawnby. He deserves all the praise he gets.”